Technology overview: In the competitive clothing market that seeks high sensitivity and high functionality, interest in natural-like materials is increased that can realize functionality of clothing based on unique sense and characteristics of natural fiber like wool and silk. Such trend requests various compounding techniques with natural fibers and synthetic fibers and inspires the new market of new sensitive natural-like functional compound synthetic fiber material. Adding sensitivity to existing natural-like materials is limited because they are usually made of blended yarn oriented knitting or union cloth where natural fibers are applied to weft knitting only. To overcome such technical limitation, 8 industry • academy cooperation groups including Se-wang Textile developed nylon high-multi fine fiber antibacterial yarn together. Weaving technology for novel graft of nylon fine filaments and natural compound blended filaments, preprocessed dye process technology for each yarn type, and optimal dye processing technology such as post processing technique were secured by manufacturing blended filaments through complex double and twisting process with materials like silk, wool, rayon, tencel, and bamboo. Based on that, highly sensitive knitting products were commercialized with shape stability and strong power in addition to the properties of natural substances like wool or silk, those are, crimping, thermo-keeping, hygroscopicity, and water repellent. This product leads product family that can enter to high value add market and set high price line while lowering manufacturing costs with the implementation of optimal compounding technology that can maintain unique luxurious properties of matter while lowering the contents of high cost natural fibers.
Industrialization: Along with demand for high classed • diversified fabric products according to life level enhancement and the technology development of cutting edge new materials, this high sensitive knitting product utilizing natural (Wool, Silk, etc.) • nylon compound materials achieved about 1.7 billion won of sales in targeting American and European markets in 2013 when the development was completed, with Habsoll Textile, one of participants, in the lead. Highlighting merits owned by natural sensitive materials and utilizing compounding materials cause persistent demand in casual product market. Also, the Nylon 20, 10 De’ High multi fine fiber and the 20 De’ anti-bacterial yarn of Kolon’s fashion materials that were developed to raise antifeeling and durability in natural compounding materials by combining fine fiber nylon served as a momentum to improve cottonizing nylon yarn that has been utilized in various products, and helped to achieve over 250 million won of sales since 2014.
Elasticity curing agent, developed in environment friendly one component type to express the highly sensitive touch of natural (Wool, Silk, etc.) • nylon compound materials, can secure over 50% of elasticity recovery rate, and it is still being sold domestically and in Vietnam. Consistent market expansion is expected in future with the original technology variousiy sensitive materials along with clothing material trend that will be unfolded based on higher value adding and higher sensitivity.
Problem-solving in industrialization: There were many difficulties to get final outcome within the range not deteriorating the unique properties of respective heterogeneous materials to secure optimal weaving, dying, processing processes for natural (Wool, Silk, etc.) • nylon compound materials.
Because natural fibers like nylon fine filament, wool, and silk are sensitive to alkali and heat and have reasonable control range, optimal condition can be secured by seeking the minimum conditions against property deterioration and chromaticity change, and deriving appropriate preprocessing, dying, and post processing conditions, which served as a momentum to express superior touch and color sense compared to three or more existing substances natural compounding material processing technique that relied on fiber dying. Also, there was many crumples or exterior pilling after completing weaving, dying, and processing due to the different length of wool and silk applied to the compounding, which can be solved by using natural substances as base yarn, winding nylon fine filament bilaterally and processing them in core yarn shape to design processes that can minimize pilling created from yarn and friction and tension in dying.
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